Le Collectionneur (i) – Paris -France
Don't turn him your back
- Joël Veyssiere
Gioachino Rossini would not have scorned sitting at this table that completes the elegant hotel Le Collectionneur. He who highlighted in the most beautiful way the myth of “The thieving magpie“, and who was an amateur of good food, would surely have enjoyed seeing the two concepts of the diverse but harmonious collection get married at this modern and bright setting.
Under the leadership of Joël Veyssiere and Nicolas Hamelin, this evening Vincent Legaré welcomes us for this dinner between kitchen and dining room.
And like the magpie, I went to steal some pictures about the work done for our beautiful plates.
It all starts with a piece of Wagyu marinated in a soy sauce, simply pan cooked and quickly burned. We obtain by this “The Fortunate Deception” a flesh that is self-sufficient in texture and taste. It can be almost cut out with the fork and any seasoning would be superfluous. Tenderness, melting and strenght, everything is there.
What comes next is the “The Marriage contest” since they are in fact two entries cumulated in one, with crispy prawns and excellent salmon confit.
“The touchstone” is probably sea bream sashimi, yuzu lemon glaze, wasabi sesame cream, daikon pickles and rice chips. Some young shoots of lemon cress come to support with their lemon-anise taste accompaniment.
Octopus with perfect cooking where the kaffir lemon vinaigrette and the tangy guacamole with passion fruit come to tickle the maritime taste. Only quinoa forms an “The curious Misunderstanding” by its somewhat rustic presentation. After discussion, we were told that the presentation of the dish was currently in reflection. So the best is in perspective.
We return to much more classic flavors with shoulder lamb confit dumplings smoked eggplant caviar.
Like “Goodness triumphant“, the superbly shiny Baba Alexander wins in its cocktail glass for our home run.
But as “Opportunity makes a thief“, it is shameless that I also raid on succullent candied figs.
We can only think that with La Tour d’Argent or The Golden House, Le Collectionneur could have been part of the Maestro canteens. Moreover, despite my apprehension for decorations a little too modern, I admit to having been seduced by a beautiful contemporary room. First of all a superb bar and especially a ceiling with elegant waves that carry you like a melody.
No bill because invited by management.
Date of the visite: 2018 October
Exceptional setting ,Terrace
Tel: 00 33 01 58 36 67 00
Addrese: 51-57 Rue de Courcelles, 75008 Paris