La table du château – Mapou – Mauritius
De Poli a dépoli
- Fabio de Poli
In the series of beautiful official tables of Mauritius, La table du Château held by Fabio de Poli is rather well placed, but a meal on the place brings you back to the harsh reality of those who fall asleep on their laurels.
The setting is of course idyllic, with a superb park with the only “castle” on the island. It is rather a fairly impressive building of the nineteenth century, lightened by a large passage identical on each level.
The restaurant is separate and has a beautiful view of both the park and the castle.
We take the gastronomique menu to test the products “signature” of the chef.
The carpaccio of marlin is completely unbalanced.
Three quenelles of lime granita of too good quality! Too powerful and too numerous, they spray the taste of slices of fennel, already powerful enough!
You can imagine that the few slices of fish that line the plate no longer exist on your palate.
It is odd, at this level of cooking, to commit such a blunder. We know that in the islands, people like strong tastes, but it is not to honor the marlin to make it disappear.
The lobster bisque is quite disconcerting because virtually odorless. But it is a good surprise in the mouth where it reveals a good job in the kitchen. Powerful, well balanced with sweet spices and roasted peppers.
Only goat cheese still causes an inconsistency because too typed. Even if I understand the concept, the one chosen is too strong against the crustacean stock.
La Table du Château Bisque de langouste
On the pure level of service, the fact of pouring a relic of bisque on the plate does not make sense to me. Indeed, you pour a product on the plate in front of the customer when it is different from the one presented to him and that it adds a visual and/or taste complement.
But to add bisque on bisque is more to make impression.
As much for the two previous dishes, we can argue about tastes and colors, as much for the scallops, it is a matter of professional misconduct. The choice of the basic product is simply bad. They are not overcooked but firm and, worst of all, stringy.
Without exaggerating, this is the first time in my life that I need a toothpick after scallops.
Let’s be clear, this does not concern the freshness of the product, which is not a problem. But it was second choice products. Perhaps the supplier who thought it would not be discovered. But it is the responsibility of the chef who has not controlled the delivery.
And it’s a shame because if mashed sweet potatoes do not leave an unforgettable memory, leetchi wine sauce is a very beautiful alliance.
The half lobster is excellent in its first line of menu, that is deglazed with lime and sea urchin. But the puree of arouille (taro) is too liquid and comes in visual surplus with the Hollandaise sauce.
We have two puddles, one beige, the other yellow, which coasts on the plate. The half tomato is misplaced and the brède Tom Pouce saves nothing.
Lemon sorbet with vodka is…a lemon sorbet with vodka.
It is on the dessert that I will really have the most questions. Indeed, the orange mousse had a sour taste that may be symptomatic of a use of carbon dioxide rather than protoxide of nitrogen in the siphon. This could be understood by the difficulty of getting the right cartridges in Mauritius. After checking with the kitchen, the correct gas is used.
So it’s a bad orange juice that served as a base for this dessert. It is wasted. We will not go further.
Nice choice of wines.
We are dealing with a chef who undoubtedly has some gastronomic skills but lets himself go to taste agreements a little too acrobatic. This can not be a problem with an acquired clientele, but the “foreigners” that I am allowed to put things right.
As for scallops of poor quality, it is unforgivable to the level of pretension and prices of the restaurant.
Bill of 214 euros for two.
Tel: 00 230 266 7172
Addrese: Domaine de Labourdonnais, Mapou, Maurice