Joséphine Chez Dumonet -Paris – France
Back to the roots
- Fabien Bourdet
Back to the roots after a long holidays! With the winter approaching, it was necessary to revise my bases, the sauce knowledges, the foie gras and stuffed morels. Is there a better place than the restaurant in which I’ve done my graduation? It is therefore light (and stomach!) hearted that I brought one of my oldest friends.
It is obvious that I will leave the stomach much less light, but the heart always refreshed, after the traditional gargantuan meal served.
The foie gras is a Must in the House. I only take it halfway. Indeed, two slices are not compatible with the desire to enjoy a confit of duck in main course.
Here, the foie gras is not its mijaurée. A beautiful slice of bread from Jean-Luc Poujauran. And then that’s all. Is there a better alliance? Hard to believe !
For those who want a little more complications, stuffed morels are killer. Selection of morels category “Jumbo”, the most beautiful and large, stuffed with a recipe officially secret but we suspect that there is a little foie gras.
The cautious ones will choose a piece of beef. The suicidal ones will ask for it well cooked. Your reputation is now fucked in the place.
The classics will be satisfied with a “boeuf bourguignon”. And they will be happy! Made with beef cheek, its sauce is still made in a traditional way, with a House stock, in which roasted bones, mirepoix and bouquet garnis have come to give all their substantive marrow liquid.
The mille feuille pigeon seduces me not only for its taste and its “rosé” cooking, but also for the millefeuille of “pommes Anna”. It is a preparation that I have always found elegant. Buttery cooking and the final crunch are a refined treat.
Several desserts which are changing according to the inspiration of the chef, Fabien Bourdet, but the mille-feuille and the soufflé Grand-Marnier are not going to disappear from the menu. The second has my preference even if easier to do than the first. Indeed, the giant mille-feuille (but really giant!) is still made with a homemade puff pastry, which is becoming increasingly rare in Paris.
Well, well, everything is done. And all of this ended with little liquors from “derrière les fagots” (untransatable!)
Date of the visite: 2018 September
Exceptional wines ,Maître-Restaurateur ,Terrace ,Traditional
Tel: 00 33 1 45 48 52 40
Addrese: 117 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006 Paris