Clover – Paris – France
Little but strong.
If it is obvious that Jean-François Piège uses his name and his reputation for the promotion of this “second” restaurant, we must be naive to believe that we will eat starry cuisine for less than 50 euros the menu. So set the expectations: eat good products, well worked, not ultra-elaborate in a simple restaurant.
Is the goal achieved?
Overall yes, although some imperfections could easily be rectified.
The atmosphere: it is a long corridor that includes the kitchen. The two fears would be noise and smells. No worries at this level, it seems that there is a good air exhaust.
The noise is more problematic because if the kitchen is very quiet, it is the customers, a little tight like sardines in their box, which create an intimacy not always pleasant. But it is understandable that the price per square meter should be amortized and that the ownercan not afford to lose a table.
So not for a romantic meal or a confidential job lunch.
The welcome: the girl who receives you is not very friendly. She did not offer to take my coat while an elderly couple came a few minutes after me was entitled to all the honors, the kiss, help for coat, etc. Probably should they leave an indecent tip.
Let’s have a look to business: to avoid repetition, let’s say immediately that the presentations are all very beautiful, elegant, light, balanced.
First comes aubergine ravioli with black sesame grilled live on a “Parisian” paving stone. I’m sure tourists should love this thing. It’s nice but the interior is a little acid and the problem of black sesame is that it gives the food a grayish tint not always very appetizing. I had the same problem with the crème brûlée of Japanese restaurant Sakagura in New York.
The ceps soup is excellent, fine, well balanced with the egg. Small mistake of naming: a Mesclun is a mix of plant shoots or salads which gathers at least five different elements. Some even say seven. Clover’s mesclun is made up of parsley, chervil and tarragon. My neighbors smelled anise. First, I have neither seen nor felt and then I will be quite surprised at risk taking anise in an entry like this. This would be the best way to saturate your mouth at the beginning of a meal.
The veal is perfect. Nothing to add. The pan-fried cep mushrooms add a rakish air to all these chiseled presentations.
The plum dessert, almond emulsion, brioche lost and ice cream is not devastating taste but can complete the meal gently.
As for drinks, I’ll go nuts! 11 euros the glass of Burgundy 2014, 18 euros the glass of champagne, 16 euros cocktail, it’s wild!
Last point, according to the rules of notation, there is a point less because if the toilets are clean, there are no two toilets men / women and they are not PMR (handicap).
I recognize that the space is very small and can not be installed. Aberration of french laws designed by people who work only in theory.
To summarize, Jean-François Piège chose a small local and in a chic neighborhood. Several methods to cushion: slightly overcharge the solid, monstrously overcharge the liquid, pack a maximum of tables. QED.
Now comes the problem of color classification. How?!! I dare put Piège in a simple “Blue” category? But it is deplorable !!! No. Logic.
Very tight tables, one person in the service, cramped toilets, no tablecloths, banal decor, too many conditions are missing to access the “Red”. But the note is adapted. It would probably had been lower if the restaurant was in the upper category.
Check of 73 euros for 1.
Date of the visite: 2017 October
Tel: 00 33 1 75 50 00 05
Addrese: 5 Rue Perronet, 75007 Paris