Brasserie Excelsior – Nancy – France
Even if you are an institution, there is no room for complacency. If the Excelsior had its glorious time, it is now only the shadow of a restaurant. It is even ashamed, after more than a century of service, not to know how to make a proper plate.
The Excelsior Christmas Tree
So what am I doing? I dilute you lines of text on the frame classified Historical Monument? Furniture from Majorelle? Gruber canopies? To perfect your general knowledge, you have their website, very complete. But in this case, I would force you to suffer the many misspellings, forgotten words and various syntactic horrors that sprinkles it. There will be 1 point less to a note that is already announced low.
The card is however selling, it’s make believe it.
But the simple appearance of the pig’s foot is disastrous. We feel in advance that it is dry, that the skin will look more like horn than a foot. And the worst is that it is barely hot. A return of lunch not consumed?
The Excelsior Pig’s Foot
Do you know why you find more and more these funny long but V-shaped fries? It’s not just because it’s changing and it’s funny. Immerse yourself in your courses of geometry (yes, I know, it’s far away), and you’ll find that this V makes it possible to occupy an identical volume of space for a mass of lower potatoes. So your plate always seems large but you have sold less material.
The pretentious scallops plancha, linguine with squid ink, cream of black truffles will they save the debacle? Well…no. Because we continue in small profits. The linguine classics in cuttlefish ink are mixed with simple spaghetti. Except that every Italian will turn in his grave when we dare to mix different pasta, it allows again to make some savings on the pasta “expensive”. The “black truffles” (why a plural for some crumbs?) are more than evanescent.
The Excelsior Saint-Jacques
And all this would still be forgivable if the precious scallops were worth the trip. But the four nuts along the scale of linguine are certainly not Erquy, let alone Quiberon. Or a bottom of the barrel. In addition, in cooking, you will find that most plates are served in a number of odd pieces. But at 29.50 euros, 5 pieces were too expensive, and 3 pieces was really too mean. So between redo the map and make a piece disappear, the choice was fast.
I will finish on a good note. In fact…no.
As shown on the map, the frozen desserts (the case of “Tout Nancy” I took) are made by a local craftsman. No luck, it was the only good thing! But not Home made! The only fault was the three mirabelles added to decorate the plate and which were, like everything that seems to come out of this kitchen, pitiful.
L’Excelsior Tout Nancy iced mirabelle bergamot
The Excelsior probably survives thanks to some considerable advantages:
– a “gold” site in front of the railway station;
-the centennial institution status;
-a mass of customers who pass and dare to complain.
I can not do anything on the first two points …
And when I see one of the waiters cleaning the restroom just before the service, I would like, at the very least, to do it with a special outfit other than that of a waiter. When you have a brewery of this size, you have a specialized company for that kind of job. One HACCP point less.
Check of 80.10 euros for two.
Date of the visite: 2017 December
Alsace-Lorraine ,Brasserie ,Exceptional setting
Tel: 00 33 3 83 35 24 57
Addrese: 50 Rue Henri-Poincaré, 54000 Nancy