Bistrot 64 – Rome – Italy
A Japanese in Roma.
- Kotaro Noda
Third and last of the Michelin star restaurants tested during our trip to Rome. Probably the most successful even if we always find something to say! I’m a little perfectionist on the edges!
As for the setting, we are more in the concept of bistronomy since the walls are covered with Parisian metro style tiles, marble tables without tablecloths with wooden settes, service casual. Far from the baroque of the Trevi Fountain. Sound atmosphere a little loud. It’s pretty but without particular character. This is a decor that can be found in hundreds of restaurants around the world.
Two tasting menus chosen by the chef, Kotaro Noda: “Just Us!” 5 services at 50 euros or “Experience” at more than 10 services for 90 euros. Or menu “Simply yours”, 5 dishes à la carte at 50 euros. Accompaniment of wines at 35 and 45 euros.
We quickly pass the amuse-bouche, slice of dry bread decorated with plots of vegetable mousse and elegantly placed on a tree trunk. Probably a conceptual expression of the marriage of the artisanal and meticulous work of the man confronted with the savage brutality of Nature. Or the chef only found it nice. Nice and good bread ball-shaped.
First service. And recognize that it attacks very hard: a scoop of oyster ice placed on a huge ice cube containing some herbs. It’s absolutely excellent! The flavor of the oyster is concentrated, powerful. For a start, it promises! Only downside, the two zests of lemon yuzu candied on the ball. For me, they are too much, although I understand the message for the tradition of citrus with the mollusc. Tradition that I do not respect. I’ve always been convinced that the oyster was self-sufficient. I do not tell you when I see vinegar or sausage coming at Arcachon!
We continue in blow one’s mind with two raw langoustines, served in a wine glass, decorated with a quality soy sauce and chopped mint and other condiments. We turn like a wine and we drink! Simple, funny, effective. Easy to remake at home. But avoid the basic Kikkoman!
Then the Carbonara without pasta! But there remains the bacon! We are saved. A little less exciting. But the chef must have an obsession with pasta without pasta since the following are actually filaments of potatoes! On a bed of mashed butter and infinitesimally scented anchovies.
Bistrot 64 Carbonara sans pâtes!
And maybe the chef should indeed avoid working this product because his cold Tagliolino on tomato bed and dominated by a spoon of caviar are the weak dish of the whole series. The caviar is drowned in the mass and the excellent tomatoes do not save the dish. (FYI, Italy is the second largest producer of farmed caviar in the world, after China.) Let’s hope that the sequel will not be a fall from Charybdis to Scylla.
He catches up brilliantly with Sardinian fregola with basil pesto, covered with a cuttlefish carpaccio, wrapped in an improbable film of pink jelly and totally transparent. Awesome, delicate. Respect!
The next dish is even better. A fillet of cod all dressed in black. A stir-fried flour lace, a delicate mushroom mousse, the fish covered with a thin layer of squid ink. But it is not simple sauce, it is gently gelled to surround it. A work of Sisyphus! (Well yes, I’m in Rome, I must use my mythology knowledges!)
We will conclude the salted part with a pigeon perfectly cooked, accompanied by a half onion almost candied and slices of orange vinegar. These are IMPERATIVELY to taste with a piece of pigeon. Sweetness and vinegar harmonize perfectly in the mouth. Otherwise, it’s horror!
What are we left? The desserts. Apart from the small kindness to pass the time, both desserts have left me a little hungry. The first coffee because it is a drink I hate. So I will not judge. The second is frightfully dry, a kind of crumble with a dry biscuit too. A little pity after this fantasy of tastes.
The selection of the wines is very good, even I thought that it might be more interesting to test a warm tasty sake with oyster ice rather than a classic white wine.
Check of 283 euros. If the menu is in English, not the website. Bizarre.
Date of the visite: 2017 September
Italian ,Michelin Stars ,Pasta ,Rome
Tel: 00 39 063235531
Addrese: Via Guglielmo Calderini, 64, 00196 Roma RM, Italie