Au bon Laboureur – Bray-sur-Seine – France
- Gilles Monti
This establishment has existed for more than 100 years (it is becoming rare!) and now managed by Gilles and Lorène Monti.
A little complex to read because the most exciting dishes (the most elaborate) are not at the beginning. Indeed, the house, despite its peasant name, is partially oriented towards fish and seafood and offers an excellent choice of starters or main courses of oysters, bouquet, whelks or langoustines, prawns, scallops or sole meunière then.
While offering in the same time some pieces of the butcher, lamb shank, entrecote, andouillette de Troyes or duck breast roasted in juice.
Very nice. But what is strange is to find a few pages later a series of “discoveries” that combine six starters and six main courses. We are therefore not in a dish or the starter of the day (too many).
Then, there are menus in which you can find dishes that are not on the menu (trout fillet with winegrower sauce) or that are only present in the “discover” (fish soup, which is not a discover since you can make it at almost any time).
A little simplification would probably be necessary. But it is true that the company probably has at heart to offer a wide choice to its customers, which is to its credit.
Let’s start with a flawless pressed foie gras. Beautiful texture, a gentle composition that alternates small pieces of foie gras and slices of smoked duck fillet. Very balanced taste. A quenelle of candied onion, but not too much, so still a good texture in the mouth.
Eggs “cocotte” that still use foie gras, so the taste is always excellent. A big minute of cooking would have been necessary, as the egg whites were not fully cooked. Well grilled and carefully cut.
Classic snails, nothing to say.
With no more veal Marengo, my partner turns to the monkfish risotto with Parmigiano. The monkfish is perfectly cooked. It should be noted that it is a fish that, when perfectly cooked, must retain a slightly elastic texture. It may surprise those who are not used to it, but it is not at all a sign of poor quality or preparation.
Very beautiful sole meunière with a pretty cut of lemon in “dent de loup”. Not complicated, but it takes a little time to prepare. A swig of cooking butter on the fish would have been a little extra.
The accompanying vegetables are ambivalent. On the one hand, great potatoes cooked with celery. This one is not present in the ramekin and gives a delicate aroma. That’s a great idea. On the other hand, the jar of various vegetables, peas, carrots, and fennel is a little less exciting.
Special mention for the cheese platter which, although it is not the largest in the world, is supplied with original products such as the boulette d’Avesnes or Tête de moine.
Delicate prune and orange dessert. Vanilla ball without much interest. A more original perfume would be worth studying.
The decor is quite disappointing because it consists of fake ornamental stones, various falsely old objects mixed with authentic ones, awful LED strips, etc.
It is unfortunate to have to endure three minutes of running time with the coffee grinder in full operation. Okay, this proves that it’s real coffee furnished. But if it’s to destroy your ears, it’s not a win-win situation.
A well-stocked wine list.
Bill of 152 euros for two people.
Date of the visite: 2019 June
Produits de la mer ,Traditionnel
Tel: 00 33 1 60 67 10 81
Addrese: 2 Rue Grande, 77480 Bray-sur-Seine