Exceptional setting

Atelier Maître Albert – Paris – France Visit Review: 16,2


Although I lived nearly 20 years at a distance of a few dozen meters, I had never set foot in what can now almost be considered an institution in the 5th arrondissement.     I'm not going to give you the usual talk about Guy Savoy; you've already read it 100 times in 100 articles. As glorious and competent as they are, making the historical filling of chefs' [...]
Atelier Maître Albert Tartare de dorade

Le Club (i) – Paris – France Visit Review: 16

Each Parisian knows that since few years, boat owners have decided to end the disastrous reputation (and deserved at the time) of fluvial gastronomy. The Bateaux-Mouches are in this positive line and it is indeed to Christian Etchebest (and not Philippe, thanks avoiding confusion) that they asked to advise the menu of this fixed barge located on the banks of the Seine. And it is now [...]
Le Club Asperge, sabayon asperge craquante au thé matcha

Le Collectionneur (i) – Paris -France Visit Review: 16,2

Ne pas lui tourner le dos !

Gioachino Rossini would not have scorned sitting at this table that completes the elegant hotel Le Collectionneur. He who highlighted in the most beautiful way the myth of "The thieving magpie", and who was an amateur of good food, would surely have enjoyed seeing the two concepts of the diverse but harmonious collection get married at this modern and bright [...]

Le Barachois – Prince Maurice – Mauritius Visit Review:

Total disapointment !

I was very happy to return to the Barachois, amazing restaurant of Prince Maurice, one of the most beautiful hotels in Mauritius. Already last year I had suffered from their ultra-restrictive policy that makes them refuse reservations even when the restaurant is empty. It is a marketing concept of making scarcity that defends itself but is frustrating for those who suffer [...]
Prince Maurice Décor 2

Belleek Castle – Ballina – Eire Visit Review: 15,8

The castle of drunk beef

The Belleek Castle looks a bit like fairy tales. After crossing a huge fortified gate, you travel several hundred meters in a large wooded park to finally appearing at the corner of a bend, placed on a hill, a castle with gray hues contrasting incredibly with a grass of a green not found.    Crossing the front door, you are immersed in a world [...]
Belleek Castle Façade du château

Le Gabriel La Réserve (i) – Paris – France Visit Review: 16,6

Limestone, show and artichoke!

Why this strange title about a restaurant? Because both chef Jérôme Banctel and director Marco Tognon make us a superb show of what modern French cuisine is but not losing its roots.    But let's begin at the beginning. (Epanadiplose and pleonasm I must calm down!) The appetizers are far from basic with a tart of foie gras and Shitake mashed potatoes, then a thin [...]

Le Procope – Paris – France Visit Review: 11,6

So neglected

The Procope remains faithful to the disinterest that it generates. It is with an unparalleled work force that everything is combined to make an establishment that is not very suitable an unpleasant memory without being disastrous.    First of all, be crudely denied access to the floor under the pretext that all the tables would be taken, when we know the [...]
Le Procope Escalier

Brasserie Excelsior – Nancy – France Visit Review: 7,2

Excelsior? Médiocrator!

Even if you are an institution, there is no room for complacency. If the Excelsior had its glorious time, it is now only the shadow of a restaurant. It is even ashamed, after more than a century of service, not to know how to make a proper plate.The Excelsior Christmas Tree So what am I doing? I dilute you lines of text on the frame classified Historical Monument? Furniture from [...]
L'Excelsior Sapin de Noël

La Goélette Royal Palm – Grand Baie – Mauritius Visit Review: 17.8

A MOF at the helm.

A wise man change sometimes his mind, a fool never. And it is true that I hate to give a superlative, too common habit that unfortunately applies to both pizzerias and starred restaurants.But in a relatively small panel like Mauritius, where only the pretension of some seems to compete with the competence of others, we need to acknowledge, after having tested some, that Michel de [...]
La Goélette Royal Palm Moelleux d'oursin parfumé de combava

U Modré Kachniky – Prague – Czech republic Visit Review: 16.4

Between Kafka and Dedalus

It's a blue house close to the Vltava, the river that runs through Prague, and that you all know by its German name: the Moldau.  Our Czech friends, fond of Kafka, first gave the same name to their two restaurants, dislocating them only by their address. Even the presentation on the website is confusing. The original, the one I tested, is in Nebovdska and the other in [...]
U Modre Kachnicky table