Unperturbed

Exceptional setting

Atelier Maître Albert – Paris – France Visit Review: 16,2

Unperturbed.

Although I lived nearly 20 years at a distance of a few dozen meters, I had never set foot in what can now almost be considered an institution in the 5th arrondissement. I'm not going to give you the usual talk about Guy Savoy; you've already read it 100 times in 100 articles. As glorious and competent as they are, making the historical filling of chefs' [...]

Il était une fois… – Provins – France Visit Review: 13,8

...in the East of Paris.

Bizarre restaurant located at the bottom of the coast which goes to the downtown of Provins. A 19th-century house, which also makes guest rooms, clinging to the hillside, overlooks a beautiful park and shelters this establishment blending decorative styles. Of course, when I tell you that the building belongs to Stella Cadente (Stanislassia Klein), you will retort [...]

Le Club (i) – Paris – France Visit Review: 16

Each Parisian knows that since few years, boat owners have decided to end the disastrous reputation (and deserved at the time) of fluvial gastronomy. The Bateaux-Mouches are in this positive line and it is indeed to Christian Etchebest (and not Philippe, thanks avoiding confusion) that they asked to advise the menu of this fixed barge located on the banks of the Seine. And it is now [...]

Le Club Asperge, sabayon asperge craquante au thé matcha

Le Collectionneur (i) – Paris -France Visit Review: 16,2

Don't turn him your back

Gioachino Rossini would not have scorned sitting at this table that completes the elegant hotel Le Collectionneur. He who highlighted in the most beautiful way the myth of "The thieving magpie", and who was an amateur of good food, would surely have enjoyed seeing the two concepts of the diverse but harmonious collection get married at this modern and bright [...]

Le Rouget de l’Isle – Casablanca – Maroc Visit Review: 14,8

Sacrilège ! ou pas...

In 2017, I promised myself I would take a complete tour of Le Rouget de l'Isle, one of Casablanca's chic restaurants. At this time, I had only had one drink (and visited the kitchens!) on the balcony overlooking the superb terrace and garden of this villa in the beautiful Casablanca districts, transformed into a restaurant by Taki Kabbaj, its owner and chef. The [...]

La villa des Orangers – Marrakech – Morrocco Visit Review: 12

Râler et châtier

When the kitchen does not follow the hotel, we can moan and chastise. Especially in a Relais and Chateaux. Yet the setting is superb. Very nice hotel located at the edge of the Medina, at the entrance very discreet, located in an old palace built in the early twentieth century and consists of several courtyards and gardens. One could build Great Expectations on this Thousand and One [...]

Beach Rouge Lux Belle Mare – Belle Mare – Mauritius Visit Review: 14,2

Almost very good

The Lux* group is known a lot in Mauritius for a few years, mainly through a fairly active communication policy, highlighting their three hotels located at three sides of the island. This is the Belle Mare that I visited, with a main stop in its restaurant Beach Rouge. The entrance is very classic for this kind of upscale [...]

Le Barachois – Prince Maurice – Mauritius Visit Review:

Total disapointment !

I was very happy to return to the Barachois, amazing restaurant of Prince Maurice, one of the most beautiful hotels in Mauritius. Already last year I had suffered from their ultra-restrictive policy that makes them refuse reservations even when the restaurant is empty. It is a marketing concept of making scarcity that defends itself but is frustrating for those who suffer [...]

Belleek Castle – Ballina – Eire Visit Review: 15,8

The castle of drunk beef

The Belleek Castle looks a bit like fairy tales. After crossing a huge fortified gate, you travel several hundred meters in a large wooded park to finally appearing at the corner of a bend, placed on a hill, a castle with gray hues contrasting incredibly with a grass of a green not found. Crossing the front door, you are immersed in a world [...]

Le Gabriel La Réserve (i) – Paris – France Visit Review: 16,6

Limestone, show and artichoke!

Why this strange title about a restaurant? Because both chef Jérôme Banctel and director Marco Tognon make us a superb show of what modern French cuisine is but not losing its roots. But let's begin at the beginning. (Epanadiplose and pleonasm I must calm down!) The appetizers are far from basic with a tart of foie gras and Shitake mashed potatoes, then a thin [...]

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