Pipero Roma – Rome – Italy
- Luciano Monosillo
Pipero Roma is the type of restaurant that requires a long enough article, I hope you will forgive me, because it is very interesting, both in the work and the mindset of chef Luciano Monosilio. A vision, quite original, but faced with constraints that require reflection.
To put it simply, a willingness to work contrasting tastes by focusing much on bitter.
But let’s start from the beginning. We are greeted in the street by a big clock proudly displaying the name of the restaurant. I love this kind of presentations a little surranned. Doorbell to open the door, vestibule and indirect access to the dining room.
Clean scenery without great interest, fun chandeliers, paintings not in the center of the walls (but it seems that it is a will of the artist …), nothing but very common for the moment.
The menu offers two menus with 6 or 10 services, of which nothing is known, or “à la carte”.
First smoky appetizer with two large and excellent green olives smoked live with rosemary.
Second appetizer taste pretty banal with a crispy black rice crisps and mashed carrots. Nice color contrast.
The first entree is a donkey tartar and squid accompanied by 3 (!) beans and bean mousse. I can see in advance howling. Donkey! Poor animal!!! Having discussed with the chef in English, I thought at first that they told me “monkey”. Arghh! So I did well to avoid a heart attack. And we finish on “donkey”. Besides, meat a little bland and firm. The dish was only two days on the menu and lacks really oomph. Even the owner of the restaurant, Mr. Pipero, has agreed. I think the pieces should be grind more finelly and deserve additional seasoning. Some toasted sesame seeds or sesame oil, for example or take the risk of a quality soybean.
Risk! Everything is there with this chef. He loves to take some. With random results … On this first dish, a great platitude. The bean mousse is good but a little floury.
Next dish, duck tartare (also a little coarse chop) sandwich of a kind of dry gingerbread, mayonnaise with mustard and candied pineapple. The real excitement comes from the small leaf of aromatic herb that really raises the dish. Regret that there are only two, while one bite is needed.
The following operations: mullet fillet with perfect cooking but visually tempered by a green sauce in “splash” (confers photo) and tastefully by a tapenade of black olives absolutely succulent but in very large quantities. It pulverizes the taste of the mullet. A few scattered spikes would be largely sufficient.
Finally the balanced dish! Eel in cardon leaf and cardon mousse and Italian cheese. A wonder.
To rest, a poached egg on light purée and dotted with black tea Lapsang Souchong. Interesting but this is where we realize why we infuse tea. Because raw powder, it’s pretty untasteful.
Who thinks Italy thinks pasta. Who thinks pasta thinks “al dente“. And here, the Italians give us lessons with these tagliatelli cooked almost dry in a reduced broth of red peppers. It explodes in the mouth!
But the Romans also taught us that the Tarpeian rock is near the Capitol. You are afraid? And you are right because our chef felt here in his obsession of contradictory tastes with a strong propensity to dominate bitterness. Rigatone with broccoli accompanied by sausage crumbs and pecorino mousse is the unfortunate outcome. Rigatoni almost raw, too spicy meat and cheese do not effectively counterbalance the bitterness of the greenery.
The following dish a variation on carbonara, (with tea powder bis), reveals a more pragmatic problem: after an egg, we are on our third plate following including pasta. Nice but, even if pasta are al dente cooked, the carbohydrate index is propelling itself to stratospheric heights. An alternation with one of the other dishes would have been welcome.
Rest the meat last, with a perfect reduction of substance, clarified and concentrated. And a little bit of Lapsang Souchong! Phew!
Then the desserts!
To conclude, we have a chef who takes a lot of risk in his dishes.
This sometimes leads to interesting surprises. But it is true that at a time when the food industry is standardizing tastes, it is not bad to be tickling the taste buds and rework some slightly neglected tastes. In any case, we can only recognize a high quality work that has resulted in obtaining this star in the Michelin Guide but a balance is needed to stabilize the customer. Even if we like to be surprised, we do not necessarily appreciate the roller coaster.
This is also problematic on liquid accompaniment. France not being the center of the wine world, I let myself be carried by the sommelier’s advice. But I must recognize that there is a lot to do with the desires of the chef. We could taste a lot of interesting wines but the consistency with the dishes was not obvious.
The little extras we are not used to in France: the welcome with a glass of Champagne Pommery offered and the freedom not to take the same tasting menu for the whole table. And the icing on the cake, offer a tasting to the spouse who takes the lightest menu so that it does not end up too often with a lack of plate. I call it elegance, if I ever saw it.
6 course menu at 110 euros, 10 courses at 140 euros.
Accompaniment of wines at 60 euros per person. Bill of 370 euros.
If you want to discover in Rome another good restaurant in total opposition to the state of mind of Pipero Roma, have a look at Assaje.
Date of the visite: 2017 September
Michelin Stars ,Pasta ,Rome
Tel: 00 39 0668139022
Addrese: Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 250, 00186 Roma RM, Italie