Les Bartavelles – Tours – France
- Ghislain Damaye
Is it in homage to their father or by irrational love of the partridge that Veronique and Ghislain Damaye have denominated their establishment of the phasiniade of Marcel Pagnol?
In fact, it does not matter. What is important to remember is that this table, a little over a year after its opening, is one of the promising Touraine tables.
Kitchen held by Ghislain Damaye and room by his sister Véronique, The Bartavelles is close to local products worked in contemporary fashion without sinking into a trendy evanescence.
Thus the mackerel fillet accompanied by dumplings mushrooms are watered with a dashi. It’s so much more chic than “bouillon” but we are on the same component. The dish is light, thin, a beautiful entry more complicated in the head than in the plate.
Celery root is more rustic but also more palatable. It is accompanied by an egg yolk marinated in soy but has meanwhile been frozen in a cooling cell. This gives both a texture and a surprising taste. Chestnuts, endives and almonds bring a rough, bitter, fat scale that is truly welcome in the face of the power of celery.
Vegetables are undoubtedly the strength of our chef because the cod would have earned barely 2 minutes less cooking while accompaniments are a beautiful interpretation of the garden.
The duck is in perfect cooking. The turnip being one of my favorite vegetables, I could only be conquered by the subtlety with the cooking juice.
Desserts very ambivalent with a fig pie, without particular difficulty of preparation, but with a very beautiful cut and presentation that require you to a souvenir photo.
The plate of assorted desserts suffers from a little less elegance and a cabbage paste a little soft, although the good taste is present on all products.
It is undeniably a table to follow in the beautiful city of Tours. A place that we will hear about in some guides after some small improvements and adaptations. But the table is only one year old and we need to give our siblings time to make their mark.
Nice wine list working very logically especially the Loire wines. Nice selection at honest rates.
In accordance with the rules of the blog, I am obliged to remove a point to my final note because the toilets, very clean, are neither doubles nor adapted to people with reduced mobility.
Bill of 166 euros for two.
Date of the visite: 2018 November
Addrese: 33 Rue Colbert, 37000 Tours