Le V’Four – Nancy- France Visit Review: 12

Tired.

- Bruno Faonio

The name of this establishment is in the approximate. Even if it is not by comparative pretension but for historical reasons (related to the name of the former owner) that his name is phonetically very close to that of Guy Martin “Grand Véfour“.

So the plate is also in the same vein. You don’t judge a book on its cover.

The decor is modern and without much interest. The usual purplish fashion, a wooden table, a nice towel ring.

We opt for a V’Four Menu at 44.50 euros and the Tasting Menu at 68 euros.

Nice snacks with snails.

Le V’Four Amuse-bouche

The very classic pan-fried foie gras with a light beet puree is very good. The hazelnut chips nicely add an extra texture.

Le V'Four Foie gras poêlé

Le V’Four pan-fried foie gras

The scallops are absolutely perfect. Respectable size, we feel a good supplier and a beautiful origin. The base of peas is absolutely not floury. Snacking à la plancha is perfect.

Le V’Four Saint-Jacques à la plancha

Well, now we’re going home. No ? Why ? Because there, honestly better to stop.

The following brill fillet is neither done nor to be done. It has a good minute of cooking too much, badly unsatisfied, topped with some mussels that provide no finesse to the dish. The creamy white wine juice is too potent on the fish.

Le V’Four Brill filet

The fillet of red drum saves nothing. Three minutes should have been subtracted. And the shellfish sauce is a disaster. If the photos give you the impression of a bisque out of his box and reassembled cream, texture is worse since floury and banal taste.

Le V’Four Filet of red drum

Contrary to the promise of the menu, the polenta is not grilled but simply heated. Tomatoes are tomatoes …

As for the pigeon, it is grasping at straws. If the fillet is perfectly medium rear and tasty, it looks like the confit leg has undergone the “faisandage” (maturation) treatment. It melts in the mouth but has a pronounced strength that used to be. Although I am fond of hunting cooking, my taste buds have a little revolt. For the form, I recognize the old-fashioned cut that leaves the central claw. What make vomiting some Anglo-Saxon tourists but I like.

Le V’Four Pigeon

Very friendly melted and sparkling Comté cheese, accompanied by some croutons.

Le V’Four Comté cooked

As often, dessert is the poor sibling. So I will not say anything.

If only the tiles are overcooked. Inedible because caramelized sugar has a bitter taste.

Le V’Four Tile well overcooked

Still happy that the advice of the wine was judicious, while directing us towards a Saint-Joseph Louis Cheze, Ro-Rée, extremely well worked, very flourished in spite of his young age.

Le V’Four St. Joseph 2015 Louis Cheze Ro-Rée

To conclude, a couple who has been at the helm for 18 years, Michelle and Bruno Faonio, who expresses clearly in the discussion a form of weariness, and who transmits it, most certainly involuntarily, to their plates.