Le Pescatore – Trou aux Biches – Mauritius
What the cost!
- Pramod Gobin
How to leave a restaurant having eaten well but with a bitter taste in the mouth? Just go to Le Pescatore at Trou aux Biches in Mauritius.
Very nice elegant and cosy ambiance, well decorated.
Similarly, the menu is physically qualitative. There was a significant expense in a good printer.
The bread is very good. The presentation plate … What to say?
We start with a rather banal but generous T-Punch.
An appetizer with pumpkin and almond oil, good but served a little warm.
Then arrives a trio of yellowfin tuna in tartare, in maki with mustard and tamarind and with melon. Each piece is quite interesting but there is no overall thought. We are closer to three (big) different appetizers than a consistent starter.
The most original is the presence of tamarind which has almost a taste of gingerbread, plus sourness. The alliance with the mustard on the tuna maki is good even if the last could be more marked.
Cucumber and crab form a classic alliance but never excited me. Here, however, there is a nice generosity in the portions and a very good work on the emulsion. This is probably the most consistent and balanced plate of the meal.
The risotto that follows is quite bland despite the supposed presence of a hot pepper oil. Indeed, to cook rice by reducing a more or less powerful broth, there is always the fear that the seasoning is too concentrated at the end of evaporation. This was not the case and the fault was not to taste the rice before serving.
It is very well cooked, with the heart still slightly crunchy.
The camarons are good but do not save the dish.
The crab and braised palm heart are mainly worth the excellent crustacean stock that accompanies them and we would have liked a few spoons on the end of cooking risotto. The presentation could be a little less gross.
The piece of fish has elegantly passed from the blue of its sea to the green of the moringa.
Thanks to a well applied technique, the chlorophyll of the brèdes has been perfectly preserved and gives a beautiful almost Italian harmony with the red of the combava tomatoes and its white flesh. Maybe we could ask for one to two minutes of cooking less.
But we stumble again with bream that suffers from the same problem of cooking and whose turmeric polenta that accompanies it is not the most silky in the mouth.
The few leaves of brèdes and the sauce were probably thrown with an artistic will. There is a long way to go …
We go back to the separatist trilogy with banana cigar and lemon banana ice cream and a strange banana granita. If the first are friendly, the second suffers to have separated the granite ice from the pulp of the banana. It is compact and sticky to the bottom of the glass. Maybe it was up to me to mix before. Not easy.
Roasted pineapple is good.
We drank an excellent South African Ataraxia Chardonnay of 2015. A very nice product, powerful and well-developed aroma. A very good job of winemaker.
So why this provocative hitch on a supposed bitterness that we find nowhere in my comments?
Because of the price.
We are on an absolutely crazy bill of 260 euros.
I warn that it’s been several years since I spent a summer (winter there!) In Mauritius. I dwell there with a friend who has been living there for over 10 years. I therefore know PERFECTLY the cost of living, the wage costs, rents, the cost of raw materials (fish, vegetables, rum, etc.).
So when I see myself billing the T-Punch glass at 12 euros, I scream.
When I see plates arriving with just nutritious portions and a rather insignificant presence of vegetables, I bellow.
When I see an empty bottle upside down in the wine bucket, I’m braying.
When I see dishes arrive sometimes a little rough, I vociferate.
When I see a beautiful menu but a lot of misspellings, I bellow.
WTF ?!! You have no Michelin star, you’re not MOF !!!
So obviously the chef has made his classes at Olivier Roellinger. Moreover, he would be the friend of a lot of chefs and well-known people who are going in his establishment. The service is perfect. The decor is neat.
But is this really a valid reason to freak out on prices?
Perhaps if we reached perfection or discovered a cuisine of boundless originality. But here we are facing good plates, not always the most beautiful, an obvious but not always successful work, quality elements well chosen but the local cost remains very low.
Finally, when you charge these rates, that your dinning room is desperately empty and that only a couple saves your evening, the least thing is to come and say hello. There was no rush in the kitchen that evening!
The note suffers from 1 point less because of misspellings (in French!).
I do not apply the penalty for noncompliance toilets throughout Mauritius because almost everyone would have one less point! But for an establishment of this claim, having a separate toilet and / or Handicap would be the least they can do.
Bill of 260 euros for 2, but that, I already wrote it …
Tel: 00 230 265 6337
Addrese: Coastal Road B36, Trou-aux-Biches