La villa des Orangers – Marrakech – Morrocco
Râler et châtier
- Jean-Claude Olry
When the kitchen does not follow the hotel, we can moan and chastise. Especially in a Relais and Chateaux. Yet the setting is superb. Very nice hotel located at the edge of the Medina, at the entrance very discreet, located in an old palace built in the early twentieth century and consists of several courtyards and gardens. One could build Great Expectations on this Thousand and One Nights scenery.
The dining room is in a colonial style sub-Saharan Africa, with a low brightness but it’s the atmosphere.
The card compensates for this weakness with an LED backlight system. It is clearly divided into two parts, one traditional and the other international, the latter being twice as important.
And we start to moan with The Red and the Black, that is to say the little salad of tomatoes. Not so much by the quality of the products as by the presentation. We have some cubes of tomatoes with a little cheese (mozzarella? Local?) Placed on black trays plastic style catering cocktail … The spoons of the same ilk …
Let’s be clear, it’s bad. It’s amazing that a Relay and Chateaux restaurant, no matter where in the world, does not have some hard plates for that. At worst, coffee saucers. This has already happened … here.
In addition, no seasoning; no salt, no pepper, no oil … Fortunately, these condiments were lucky to have the expense with nice containers.
De même pour le beurre.
Appetizers with foie gras and pineapple without much interest. I do not understand that with the extraordinary assortment of spices found in Morocco, we do not try to integrate them into such a noble and interesting product. For example, I make my foie gras with nutmeg, Madagascar pepper and saffron. Here, nothing. The pineapple creates an acid contrast, sweet but nothing worked.
The lobster ravioli and bisque are good but the sauce is Crime and Punishment. It is not thickened as you can see in the picture. It is unthinkable to serve a plate with fat eyes like that.
Salad shrimp are dead souls. They seem really out of the freezer, soft, floury texture. The lemon espuma has, not enough overflowing. The trunk of greenery placed on it does not demerit in room of honor in the Jardin des Plantes.
The grilled beef tenderloin is good, well cooked, nice presentation, well tied sauce.
With the shoulder of lamb confit, the world collapses. She is good even if she deserves to be served a little warmer. The problem comes from cutting and baking carrots. First, they are completely irregular both in surface and thickness.
Then they are overcooked and soft.
You will tell me that I quibble but we are in a fairly elegant restaurant with an addition well above average in Morocco. Whose little hands may be required to be able to turn and slice carrots in a manner that is nearly right.
With lobster ravioli, it is probably the dessert that is the best dish of the meal and makes us The Magic Mountain. The poached pear is of a very beautiful texture, the caramel muslin of the same and very fine in the mouth.
Only small mistake, the caramel passed by the blowtorch at the bottom of the plate. This makes a layer stuck to the bottom and can not be tasted with the help of a jackhammer.
You may find me a bit hard, but I’m not Jacques the fatalist. Villa des Orangers is part of the Relais et Châteaux chain. And as such, without necessarily waiting for an ultra-elaborate kitchen, we can expect work of a quality superior to that provided. I will not get upset in The Sound and Fury and will leave the leader with his One Hundred Years of Solitude.
Bill of 250 euros for 2 adults and 1 child.
Tel: 00 212 5243-84638
Addrese: 6 Rue Sidi Mimoun، Place Ben Tachfine، Marrakesh 40000, Maroc