La Maison dans le Parc – Nancy – France
Nice Maison in a nice parc.
- Françoise Mutel
La Maison dans le Parc, Nancy’s only Michelin-starred restaurant, under the direction of chef Françoise Mutel, could not avoid my passage. And this was definitely the best step of my four stops.
At my next visit, I will try to visit château d’Adomenil, near Luneville, which is the only comparable house nearby.
The dining-room is classic, in black, overlooking a beautiful park with old trees.
The service is quite young and competent. Even though my order was a bit slow. I was, I think, a little bit forgotten, alone as I was near my window. The view was beautiful and the weather languorous, it was not problematic.
La Maison dans le Parc Buns and smoked trout
The starter is a plate of crumbled crab topped with large thin slices of squash, accompanied by an orange emulsion with almond oil. In addition to being generous in quantity, the whole is tastefully harmonious. All smooth and with the sufficient hint of citrus acidity.
La Maison dans le Parc Crab crumbled and squash
La Maison dans le Parc Crumbled Crab
The sirloin steak of Angus sends us back to the battle of meat in long maturation. We are about 6 weeks for this beast. One of my friends butchers (Old School!) finds in these meats a taste of corpse! On my side, I confess to have a weakness for a beautiful rib of beef long maturation, quickly pan-fried and then cooked at low temperature.
We will not mention HACCP’s concerns about leaving a few hours of meat between 44 and 48 degrees. Because we like to live dangerously!
Here, not that kind of trouble since we are on a minute cooking. Unfortunately, the result is a little disappointing. Even if the meat is tasty, for a piece of ribeye, matured moreover, there is still a certain firmness that would not be necessary. No problem cooking but more likely an animal that, despite its name Angus, was not the most beautiful of the herd.
Some potato spaghetti make the vegetable. The meat stock is very good.
La maison dans le Parc Fillet Angus
La maison dans le Parc Fillet Angus very rare
The interest lies especially in the small brioche topped with a marrow butter and truffle peels passed to the microplane. Even if the gain in fat would make any dietitian scream, a greater thickness of marrow would better balance the whole.
La Maison dans le Parc Marrow and truffle
La Maison dans le Parc Brioche Buns grazed
It is also the balance that lacks a little for the dessert. The elements themselves are irreproachable, of a very high quality and it’s beautiful work. I fully understand the desire to counterbalance the sweetness and the slightly mushy side of the chestnut with the acidity of blackcurrant sorbet. This one, lack of its quality, is, in my opinion, too powerful and dominates the dessert.
La Maison dans le Parc Dessert brown currant
Check of 112 euros for 1. But with a glass of Champagne Pol Roger at 19 euros.
La Maison dans le Parc Check
Date of the visite: 2017 December
Alsace-Lorraine ,Collège culinaire de France ,Maître-Restaurateur ,Michelin Stars ,Terrace
Tel: 00 33 3 83 19 03 57
Addrese: 3 Rue Sainte-Catherine, 54000 Nancy