La Chaumière – Aubigny-sur-Nère – France
Better and better
- Philippe Arnault
From one year to the next, it is a sensible progress that we feel on the plate. During my first visit in late 2016, I noticed an interesting touch but with a je-ne-sais-quoi uncompleted.
My visit in December 2017 showed me significant progress at all levels. Except perhaps the service which sometimes “act like nothing’s”.
Small appetizers and classic appetizers.
We start with a carpaccio of scallops accompanied by a “peasant cut” of Jerusalem artichoke and a truffle ice cream of Berry. Because there are truffles in Berry, and even Melanosporum! It was cultivated extensively until the nineteenth century.
The plate is fine and a balanced taste blend. The marriage land and sea is perfect.
Same thing on langoustines accompanied by a “bavarois” of leeks. This one is of a great delicacy. Only langoustines could undergo a more elegant treatment. As much the presentation of all the accompaniments is beautiful, as much, the few crustaceans deposited in bulk make spots.
Great inspiration from Paul Bocuse (and himself from Paul Haeberlin as he said himself) for duck stew because we find the structure of VGE soup, with a pastry on a terrine, but with excellent duck broth. The pieces of meat are generous, the vegetables have given all their taste.
Small disappointment (but quickly repaired) for the plate of sweetbreads. The meat is well cooked but the main accompaniment announced, the fried ceps, is almost absent. We had to show the desperation of the plate to see us add an extra bowl.
The sweetbread was accompanied by Chinese artichoke, a vegetable that had been rediscovered. Pretty easy to cook but needing to be worked fresh. Easy to prepare but with a unique method: you have to put it in a cloth with coarse salt. This makes the skins fall without damaging it. There is nothing more to do that to rinse. And cook!
For dessert we find an alliance attempted by Françoise Mutel, at La Maison dans le Parc in Nancy (article here), citrus with brown. As much at Madame Mutel’s, it’s the blackcurrant that smothered the fruit. Here is the variety of chestnut that does not let the clementines express themselves.
In addition, when we put “supreme clementines” to the menu, we must put real, that is to say remove the skin of the parts. I know, it’s more difficult on clementines than on an orange or a lemon. But in this case, the name “supreme” has to be remove.
Only missed of the meal since the baba Limoncello saves the bet.
La Chaumière offers a beautiful cellar book in which you will find a very wide choice of various beverages.
We chose a Pernand-Vergelesses 2015 from Sordet. It had the power to stand against sweetbreads or duck stew while accompanying without heaviness langoustines or scallops. Well developed despite its young age.
We can say that my score of 14.2 is not extraordinary for the beautiful meal that we seem to have tasted. It is simply that, in view of its progress, I decided to move this restaurant to the GOLD category while I would have left it in RED in 2016. I adapt its rating to the requirements of its new category. In RED, he would have scored above 18. In GOLD, it leaves space to continue in the improvements that I have seen.
Perhaps you will say that I am too kind to place this restaurant in GOLD as the Michelin gives only 2 “cutlery”. It is because I am old fashioned. The Michelin changed. Not me. Probably 20 or 30 years ago, this restaurant would have a largely better note in the red guide. But today, what they are proposing in not “in the mood”. It doesn’t mean that it is not good.
Why my little comment on the service? For a young man who probably knows his job but we do not feel him involved through and through. When you are in a beautiful house, you have to fit yourself in the mould.
The website deserves better photos.
Check of 201 euros for 2.
Date of the visite: 2017 December
Hunting ,Loire-Sologne ,N°1 TA ,Traditional
Tel: 00 33 2 48 58 04 01
Addrese: 2 Rue Paul Lasnier, 18700 Aubigny-sur-Nère