Il était une fois… – Provins – France
...in the East of Paris.
Bizarre restaurant located at the bottom of the coast which goes to the downtown of Provins. A 19th-century house, which also makes guest rooms, clinging to the hillside, overlooks a beautiful park and shelters this establishment blending decorative styles.
Of course, when I tell you that the building belongs to Stella Cadente (Stanislassia Klein), you will retort that I am an unspeakable old nerd who doesn’t understand anything about art and fashion. And, indeed, I didn’t know this person at all, thank you Wikipedia for enriching me. And it’s also that I try to have no preconceptions and fame (that of others, I remain unknown) has never made me change my opinions.
So I stay on my impression of strangeness, but without forgetting that I’m here for the plate.
Let’s start with the ceviche. Ultra classic with lime, orange zest, and chili pepper. Although first on the menu, don’t be afraid, it is practically non-existent on the plate. Fortunately, it is one of the most powerful easy to find on the market. There are strongest ones, but they’re for the insiders. And the plate is not nice.
We are much better with foie gras, which is excellent, on kiwi chutney and in parallel with apple crumble. Good general balance. Kiwi softens liver fat very well. A few extra grams would have been a good idea. But we are indeed on an S/P/D menu at only 34 euros.
Tuna tataki in the tradition with its two sesame seeds, white and black and Thai rice. Perfect cooking.
Crab risotto is undoubtedly the most exciting dish, both in terms of a delicate balance of colors and excellent technical work. No leftover internal skeleton, risotto well enough cooked with the heart almost crunchy. A beautiful dish in every sense of the word.
A poached pear that finishes the meal very well.
Why didn’t I classify this restaurant in my Red category? While it seems to deserve it, both for its decoration and the quality of the cuisine.
Several things that are accumulating:
First of all, several tables are only bistro tables, very chic with beautiful decoration, but not compatible in size and presentation with an elegant establishment.
-Then, to make profits with all the space (which is understandable by the way), the room next to the dining room is occasionally used for demonstration meetings or other purposes. The absence of physical separation, of partitioning, is embarrassing.
-the menu has many spelling or typographical errors. The artistic license does not excuse everything.
-Finally, the toilets, as charming as they may be, are stuck in a half-floor in the middle of the stairs. Disadvantageous for the disabled and not only. Going to the gymkhana to relieve yourself is not a joy.
So a loss of two points according to the rules of the blog. Without spelling and toilets, the score would be 15.8.
I’m not sure that the chandelier with the optical fibers falling to the ground can resist children indefinitely…
Bill of 100 euros for two people.
Date of the visite: 2019 March
Exceptional setting ,Terrace
Tel: 00 33 6 10 22 88 30
Addrese: 28 Rue Maximilien Michelin, 77160 Provins