Gronnegade – Copenhaguen – Denmark
The place to do
In the Copenhagen restaurants, Gronnegade is probably the most interesting even if not necessarily the most successful, especially on shallot cutting. But do not anticipate.
Nice elegant and cozy. We were initially at the bar, converted into a table, but a real was released in the room. But after reflection, despite the small discomfort of the bar, it could very well have accommodated all evening.
The menu is all I hate: a simple litany of the three main elements of the dish. No indication of cooking, sauce or complementary accompaniments. Why this disastrous habit (and ugly on a menu)? You’ve always been told that it was fashionable, more trendy, than it was conceptual?
In fact, only one reason: the chef is not bound to a specific description. He can adapt his recipe according to the taste of the day, the supply of certain products, the will to save money or his natural laziness. He may even (you did not realize it?) completely change the cooking mode if he likes.
Obviously this is a general explanation and does not necessarily apply to our restaurant.
In retrospect, it is the appetizer that has the most beautiful presentation of all dishes. Fine cutting of vegetables, fine mousse, visual coherence of the plate with the dishes.
The first dish is scallops accompanied by a stock of vegetables and sea aster. Very very good. The few chanterelles that dot the plate are welcome. But what come to loose these incongruous corns that, apart from giving a hint of sunny color, are totally irrelevant?
Beef tenderloin is just as irreproachable if not this weird shell of dough that welcomes the vegetables. Inedible texture.
The pata negra is a little gustatory wonder. Provided that you do not touch the semi-shallots almost raw that border it. It’s like being in a scene of “The Cabbage Soup”( french comedy). This is rough formwork for the mouth.
Nice creme brulee.
It’s the dessert that’s almost perfect. Very amazing presentation, nest-shaped.
Topped with balls that form the egg. Taste not necessarily transcendent but we feel an original work.
The second chocolate dessert is in the same vein, beautiful visual performance but lack of depth in taste.
Gronnegade is an interesting restaurant but unfinished on several points. And the shallots cut in half are much too rustic for the dishes presented, corn is an aberration on the plate.
I feel a strong capacity for work and originality but frankly lacking finesse. It is definitely a restaurant that we will hear about in the future if it arrives to gain in delicacy on certain points of detail.
The service is very competent and attentive to the customer.
As almost always in Denmark, very good breads.
Test the excellent aquavits.
Bill of 250 for 2. A bit expensive as always in Denmark.
Date of the visite: 2018 October
Europe du Nord
Tel: 00 45 33 93 31 33
Addrese: Grønnegade 39, 1107 København, Danemark