Chez L’Ami Fritz – Sarrebourg – France
Go East !
Just with a name like that, you can imagine that we are in eastern France. In Sarrebourg to be exact.
It is the locals who spent time on the school benches in Alsace and Lorraine who will know a little more than l’Ami Fritz is a character from a novel written by two authors from the East, Emile Erckmann and Alexandre Chatrian. It is the story of a bon vivant allergic to marriage and only looking to enjoy life in good harmony with everyone.
In a somewhat contradictory way, I was attracted to this restaurant by the last two deplorable comments on Tripadvisor. Even if it meant taking risks for you, dear reader, I thought this establishment seemed appropriate.
I won’t keep you waiting too much; these two comments were probably due to some bad bedfellows because the table is far from justifying them.
Nothing to say about the service, which is irreproachable. Those who do not know the Alsatian and Lorraine minds may find it a little cold. It is in fact a total lack of hypocrisy that leads to the abandonment of smiles of complacency and pretense. We are polite, friendly, with a discreet and uncompromising smile. For those who like to be buttered up, Eastern France is not a good host region…
The menu is rather regionalist in presentation and could lead people to believe that the dishes served will remain in the classic banality of presentation and will have to distinguish themselves by their taste qualities.
The first surprise with the marrow bones that our chef decorates with several small vegetables just cooked, turnips, red cabbage, radishes, string or snap-beans, etc. He offered three small quenelles of jam, fig, red onion and especially qumquat. Vegetables lighten the fat of the marrow very intelligently and jams will satisfy those who like to add sugar and fat.
Perhaps it would be better to separate these two types of support by leaving the choice to the client. Either sugar or vegetables. The two together do a lot.
Nevertheless, for an entry offered at 10 euros, we are very largely satisfied both by the work provided and by the quality of the food.
The dish is also an improved specialty here. These are spaetzle (don’t try to pronounce without a few years of experience) with a poached egg and smoked salmon. Our pasta is, of course, homemade, a beautifully assembled plate. A combination of fine and elegant taste. A little downside because of the salt. Indeed, the spaetzle, probably salted at first, cooked in salted water and topped with a smoked salmon, itself obviously salted, it gives a dish quite edible but a little too salty… A lightening would have been welcome. Dried tomato skins for decoration are a little rubbery.
Good chives cream.
The same willingness with whipped eggs as the custard is added with a milk jam. This gives a slightly sour taste that balances the natural excess of sugar in the dessert. No need for basil leaves. Especially since it was a little hit.
As for bread, we will see the same generosity. In addition to the usual baguette, the basket contains bread, brioche, and kougelhopf. A little too grilled for the brioche, but we’ll forgive.
A quarter of pinot noir very good and at the price of a glass in Paris.
Finally, Marc de Gewürtz generously served.
Even if Tripadvisor isn’t perfect, it is still the only exhaustive list of establishments around the world. It is therefore necessary to know how to make the difference and find the best addresses.
The Ami Fritz is undoubtedly one of them, an imaginative, hardworking chef, who can sometimes get carried away by his excess generosity, (the best is the enemy of the good) but who offers a traditional cuisine enhanced without losing his soul in any way.
If you’re going through Sarrebourg, at least make this stop.
Addition of 57.25 euros for one person.
Date of the visite: 2019 July
Alsace-Lorraine ,Terrace ,Traditional
Tel: 00 33 3 87 03 10 40
Addrese: 76 Grand Rue, 57400 Sarrebourg