Bocuse – Collonges-au-Mont-d’Or – France
Once in your life.Two is better!
- God! (And Saint Christophe bearing the temple on his back!)
What to say about a legend? As Monsieur Paul is today more than an institution.
If some reproach his megalomania, he must be recognized as THE figure of French cuisine of the twentieth century. And watch out, you might get burned (at Pepper X!)
It is said that one day the greatest chefs of the world were gathered around a good table and at the end were discussing to define the greatest. Bocuse was asleep at the end of the table. At one moment, X (put the name of a chef you don’t like) proclaims: “The greatest chef in the world is me. One day God told me …” At that point Bocuse raises an eyelid: “What did I say?”
My first visit was during an E-Type car rally. I was with my Australian co-pilot. We should originally had lunch at Georges Blanc‘s, but it was closed that day. We get a table at Bocuse and arrive with a little delay. Dijon-Collonges is longer than Dijon-Vonnas! After parking in the normal parking, the director asks me if I did not see any inconvenience to place my vehicle in front of the door of the restaurant during the meal! (Have a look at the picture of my car, you will understand).
No problem but I was worried about the strength of the sealing of the bronze plaques of the Bocuse d’Or winners. The beast is still 1465 kilos empty. It’s steel, not plastic! No problem.
Hence the fabulous photo that I share with you.
The pigeon puff pastry left me an undying souvenir. My co-pilot could not believe it. I must say that I had conceded him the opportunity to drive if I chose the restaurants for lunch during the 11 days of the circuit …
This was without a doubt the most beautiful stop.
I went back with my friend and my daughter for her 18 years and distinction Baccalaureate Pro Bakery-Pastry at Ferrandi.
We chose the Great Tradition Classic menu. We had an excellent (the best?) table, in the arc of a circle overlooking the room and the crazy sideboard.
Escalope of stir-fried duck foie gras classic and perfect.
VGE soup. Excellent. The only regret is that we were not in the right season to have fresh truffles. The restaurant prefers to make canned French Melanosporum rather than using Aestivus or Australian. It is true that they support much less cooking.
The sole Fernand Point: a marvel! With a hollandaise sauce absolutely stunning.
The centerpiece: poultry from Bresse in bladder, Mère Fillioux. Here, we enter the legend, a fine taste, a product worked according to tradition.
Only the selection of cheese is a little disappointing, too limited.
The farandole of desserts is the final firework.
We do not go to Monsieur Paul restaurant to taste a sardine cut with a scalpel and deboned with tweezers! Yes it is a heavy cuisine according to the criteria of people obsessed by bathroom scale, generous with butter sauces, not a dish with a pigeon wing that fights in a duel with three peas in a pond of diluted fumet. Even fewer plates in the hendecagonal form or irregular polygons with smoke and other chemical lucubrations. Cooking is chemistry, but nitrogen and carbon dioxide must not overshadow what you eat.
Are there any errors? Yes. The vegetables served with the poultry are poorly glazed and stained with sauce. The rice served was unworthy of the place.
For wine, ask for the second card which offers a much wider choice than the selection of the base card. The sommelier is very good advice.
Check, XXXX euros for 3 adults, half for a 2007 Echezeaux grand cru. I don’t give the price because at this level, we do not care!
In conclusion, an extraordinary evening, a unique souvenir for my daughter. No regrets.
Date of the visite: 2015 October
Collège culinaire de France ,Exceptional setting ,Michelin Stars ,MOF ,Rhône-Alpes
Tel: 00 33 4 72 42 90 90
Addrese: 50 Rue de la Plage, 69660 Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or, France