Atelier Maître Albert – Paris – France
- Emmanuel Monsallier
Although I lived nearly 20 years at a distance of a few dozen meters, I had never set foot in what can now almost be considered an institution in the 5th arrondissement.
I’m not going to give you the usual talk about Guy Savoy; you’ve already read it 100 times in 100 articles. As glorious and competent as they are, making the historical filling of chefs’ lives, my cup of tea has never been. Megalomaniacs won’t forgive me for that. Guy Savoy not being, in my opinion, in this category, I am saved!
One of the primary defects that affect many restaurants after a few years is shortness of breath. We have our regular customers; we bungle the plates a little, the service becomes more (too) cool, we save on suppliers, quantities, etc..
Here, none of this. We have maintained quality and consistency. The poultry is therefore still farmed and from Maine, the Breton pigeon and the Charolais beef rib.
In terms of taste, there is nothing to complain about. Both the fish, scallops, and pigeon are perfectly cooked. The same for vegetables, with a special mention for gratin, spinach, and mushrooms. Idem for the excellent puff pastry brioche for dessert.
We will also note the soup, dish that we find less and less on the menus for various reasons, good or bad. Thinking that with it, “you don’t get value for money”. To believe that it will be bland. That it’s only for winter. And it is also true that the presentation is more complicated. Indeed, during the movement from the kitchen to the dining room, most of the time, decoration will not fit on the liquid. Hence the diversion, which consists in bringing the empty but decorated plate without the liquid. And to serve it at the table.
At those prices (no entry under 11 euros and no dish under 22), we could expect a little more effort on the presentation of some plates. Like the pigeon, excellent by the way.
Smooth transition to address my only real disappointment: the setting. If the first room near the entrance is beautiful, the second room should be avoided. The black ceiling decor is completely outdated, and the lights are too powerful; the sound is loud. Only the majestic fireplace would justify the imperative need to sit here.
Nevertheless, we must thank the nursery schools of the 5th arrondissement for the generous donations of the paintings on the walls.
It is therefore always a beautiful Parisian table that can welcome you for lunch or dinner, quality products, well prepared, merely deserving a little more attention on the presentation.
Did you see that? It is possible to talk about a (secondary) restaurant of a great chef by focusing on the plate and without unpacking the biography to make the filling…
Date of the visite: 2018 November
Exceptional setting ,Rotisserie
Tel: 00 33 1 56 81 30 01
Addrese: 1 Rue Maître Albert, 75005 Paris