Assaje Aldrovandi – Rome – Italy
- Claudio Mengoni
This restaurant is the total opposite of Pipero Roma. To sum up, good (too) but no risk taking. It must be said that it is a hotel restaurant. They can not disturb the clients.
There is a nice garden with a pool. You can have a cocktail there. There is a bar. Beware of mosquitoes, the area is a bit damp.
As in Pipero, welcome with a glass of sparkling (Italian this time) offered.
Tasting menus at 4 and 6 dishes at 110 and 140 euros.
After the amuse-bouche, three slices of raw amberjack, marinated in tomato water and accompanied by a salad of salicornia, avocado and apple. Good cutting and good assembly of products. Fresh and light.
Then, a risotto of cauliflower and capers powder. For my friend, spaghetti with a rabbit stew, orange and chard. Banal. Nourishing but nothing very transcendent.
Then torteli of oxtail, spinach and melted Castelmagno cheese. Same ecstasy as previous dish…
Continuation with a fillet of mullet in tempura on bed of eggplant, red onions and smoked Provolone cream. Let’s be honest, a little more typical in the mouth.
On the other hand, the octopus will be remarkable for its flatness. Strictly no flesh taste. The accompaniment of bean cream was nice, but the cephallopoda did not express any other flavor than its passage in pan.
Let’s finish with a caramelized suckling pig with a cream of salsify and shallots cooked in Porto wine and mustard. We finish better than we started.
To digest, I was offered homemade herbal teas mixed with freshly picked herbs.
Not feeling myself still bedridden soul and the desire to make me border by “Momone” at the exit of the establishment, I turned to grappa offered.
Despite my apparent lack of enthusiasm, do not jump to conclusions that we have eaten badly. The work was present and maybe this restaurant suffered from my dinner of the previous evening in Pipero Roma, much more original even if sometimes missed. Assaje offers a very classic cuisine, good design, with excellent elements (except the octopus!) But lacking a bit of originality.
The beautiful sequence of wines offered is not enough to encourage erethism.
I keep you the best for last. It was a simple tomato coulis with a quenelle of cream. And succulent! A taste of sweet tomato, without a touch of acidity, which makes you rediscover this fruit. A wonder. Well, will you believe it? It was the plate offered to my wife to make her wait during my multiplicity of dishes!
Check of 373 euros for 2.
Date of the visite: 2017 September
Michelin Stars ,Rome
Tel: 00 39 06 321 6126
Addrese: Via Ulisse Aldrovandi, 15, 00197 Roma RM, Italie