L’Assiette – Paris – France
Reactionary but not too much.
- David Rathberger
Although I like the traditional, it should not be too much reaction. I landed in this restaurant after a video of the chef, David Rathgeber, on Facebook praising his hare à la Royale. We are there on dishes and mentalities that make me crack like rediscovering the calf’s head in “turtle”.
But he made a quick description of the recipe and seasoned it with wild comments against the vacuum and other modernities like the electronic thermometer. Frankly, sometimes, we must stop the nonsense. If it is to fall back into the syndrome of the revolt of the canuts, as much to throw the furnaces and to light the logs in the middle of the kitchen. And leave, let’s go hunting the deer with the club and the hare with bow and arrows.
Vacuum, to take only this example, is an immeasurable hygienic and culinary contribution. Not to mention the financial point of view for extending the life of products. And I think our chef knows it. And as for the thermometer, it’s still more convenient to be sure to have its rare meat to see its small indication of 44-48 °. But a little buzz never hurt. The whole thing is not to abuse it.
We are not going to redo the debate and let’s look at the Monsieur’s plate.
We arrive in a rather pretty, including a beautiful old mirrors right on entering and a beautiful glass ceiling. The kitchen is semi-open and visible from the entrance. Small room isolated at the end.
We are greeted with a chiffonade of ham on the bone, tasty and mellow. But also by a good smell of grilled chicken feather. Indeed, the kitchen had the unfortunate initiative to burn the gallinaceous early service. Stupid idea if there is one. The dining room smells …
No luck, the famous hare was not available. I went down on a terrine of foie gras and sweetbreads to start.
She is tastefully nice but would not raise mountains. The shape is quite original, more like a pie. The set is good and is elegant as you can see in the picture.
But this format is not only aesthetic reasons. Indeed, it allows, in two tranches, to sell a lot more pulp and therefore less flesh. At the price of sweetbread and foie gras, we better understand our rogue chef. Because at 13 or 14 euros the entry, we would say nothing, but at 18 euros, it is expensive cooked flour.
Then comes the mallard duck pie and foie gras.
The dish is perfect. Superb baking puff pastry, the interior has taste, the venison stock served next is irreproachable. One could hope a hash a little finer fat pieces of stuffing. This would allow it to melt better and have a finer mastication. But here we are really in the detail.
What is more embarrassing is the thigh on the mashed potatoes. I say embarrassing to be polite, but when you try to give lessons, it’s unacceptable. When you have fun in flaming chickens during the service, you could hope to apply the same treatment to the feather remains of the duck. It would look nicer on the plate.
Salted butter caramel cream for dessert. At 11 euros the potty is not tomorrow that the house goes bankrupt. It is also mostly the caramel which brings all the taste. The cream alone is pretty bland, even if you notice the presence of real vanilla seeds inside.
Nice little glass of Minervois, Kalys, whit that.
A nice lunch but a bit strong. Our chef reactionary is in the kitchen but knows how to adapt to modern inflation.
Check of 76 euros for 1.
Date of the visite: 1970 January
Collège culinaire de France ,Hunting ,Les Collectionneurs
Tel: 00 33 1 43 22 64 86
Addrese: 181 Rue du Château, 75014 Paris